) to investigate, have a garage test the cooling system pressure.Starting a New Game will no longer overwrite the last loaded manual save To make certain this is the cause, before removing the cylinder head (See , the cylinder-head gasket may be leaking. With the engine running, smell the coolant itself - if there is a whiff of exhaust If you suspect an internal coolant leak, allow the radiator to cool, take off the cap, and look for signs of oil or frothy bubbles in the radiator or
Watch the temperature gauge if it goes into the danger area, stop and allow the engine to cool. If the cooling system springs a small leak when you are on the road, you may be able to drive home slowly by releasing the radiator cap to its first catch, or by putting a match under the If a thorough search fails to locate the leak, suspect a damaged gasket between the cylinder head and the cylinder block, or a cracked head or block. Use a mirror and torch to find if there is one hidden behind the engine, made inaccessible by the bulkhead. They may be blown loose by pressure from the system, corroded, or even loosened by vibration. Inspect hoses carefully at bends and joints, as well as where they clip on to stubs (SeeĬore plugs, which fill holes left in the cylinder block when it is being cast, are other likely sources of leaks. Off an old hose can easily break off the stub. Some cars have plastic coolant tanks, and leaks in them are also beyond do-it-yourself repair.Īlways treat them gently - using a screwdriver to
But leakage from a radiator seam is best left to a garage. Small leaks can sometimes be cured by sealing preparations available from shops and garages. Seams at the top and bottom of the radiator are also danger spots. Is flexed by engine movement over the end of the stub to which it is fitted, or where an overtightened clip has bitten into the rubber. Has built up - forcing out coolant at any weak spot.
So are rust-coloured stains in theīut if you cannot actually see the leak, a systematic check is called for.
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